Questions to ask a gutter installer before you hire
The questions that matter most are about the details that make gutters last: the metal thickness, the type and spacing of hangers, the slope, the downspout size and placement, and what the warranty actually covers. Ask every installer the same questions and get the answers in writing, so you can compare quotes fairly.
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About the company
1. Are you licensed and insured?
Licensing requirements for gutter work vary by state and city. Some require a contractor or home improvement license, others don't. Insurance matters everywhere: ask for proof of general liability and workers' compensation coverage, and check that it's current. If an uninsured worker is hurt on your property, you could be exposed.
2. Do you install gutters yourselves or use subcontractors?
Either can work, but you should know who will be on your roof and who's responsible for the work.
3. How long have you been installing gutters, and can I see recent jobs?
Ask for addresses of recent jobs you can drive by, or photos, and for references you can call. Look at reviews on several independent sites, not just testimonials on the company's own website.
4. Will you need a permit?
Most gutter replacements don't need one, but some jurisdictions or HOAs have rules, especially for historic districts or drainage changes. A local installer should know.
About the gutters
5. Seamless or sectional?
Seamless gutters are formed on site in continuous runs, so the only seams are at corners and ends. Sectional gutters are joined every few feet, and each joint is a potential leak. Our guide to gutter styles covers the advantages and disadvantages of sectional and pre-cut gutters.
6. What material and what thickness?
For aluminum, ask for the gauge or thickness. Residential aluminum gutters are commonly offered in about 0.027-inch and 0.032-inch thicknesses. Thicker metal resists dents and sagging better, especially under ladders, snow, and ice. Steel, copper, and vinyl are other options with different trade-offs.
7. What size and profile do you recommend, and why?
Five-inch K-style gutters are common, but large or steep roof areas, valleys that dump water into one spot, and heavy-rain climates may call for 6-inch gutters. A good installer will explain the choice based on your roof rather than just quoting a default.
8. What hangers will you use, and how far apart?
Hidden hangers screwed into the fascia (or rafter tails) hold better than older spike-and-ferrule systems. Many installers space them roughly every 2 to 3 feet, closer in snow country. Ask for the spacing in writing.
9. What slope will you use?
Gutters need a slight pitch toward the downspouts so water doesn't sit. A commonly used guideline is around a quarter inch of drop per 10 feet, but the right slope depends on the run length and the look you want. Long runs may slope both ways from the middle to two downspouts.
About downspouts and drainage
10. How many downspouts, what size, and where?
Too few or too small downspouts is a common cause of overflow. Ask whether they recommend standard 2x3, larger 3x4, or oversized downspouts, and where each one will go. See our downspout guide for sizes and elbows.
11. Where will the water go?
Downspouts should discharge several feet from the foundation, using extensions, splash blocks, or underground drains. Ask if extensions or drain connections are included, and make sure water isn't directed toward a neighbor, a walkway that freezes, or a septic drain field.
About the job
12. Will you check and repair the fascia?
Old gutters often hide rotted fascia boards. Ask how rot repair is priced so you're not surprised mid-job.
13. How will you handle the roof edge and drip edge?
The gutter should sit so water coming off the roof lands in it, not behind it. Ask how they'll make sure water doesn't run behind the gutter.
14. What's included in the price?
Get an itemized written quote that lists linear feet, gutter size and thickness, color, hangers and spacing, number and size of downspouts, elbows and extensions, removal and disposal of old gutters, fascia repair, and cleanup.
15. What warranty do you offer?
There are usually two: the manufacturer's warranty on the material and finish, and the installer's warranty on workmanship. Ask how long each lasts, what it covers (leaks, sagging, paint), and whether it transfers if you sell.
16. What's the payment schedule?
A modest deposit is common, with the balance due when the work is complete and you've inspected it. Be cautious of anyone asking for most of the price up front.
17. Do you offer gutter guards, and which type?
If they sell guards, ask what type and why. Our article on gutter guards pros and cons covers each type and its trade-offs.
Red flags to watch for
- Pressure to sign the same day, or a "today only" price
- No written quote, or a quote with only a single total
- No proof of insurance
- Large cash-only deposits
- Door-to-door offers right after a storm from companies with no local address
Safety: if you inspect gutters yourself before getting quotes, use a stable ladder, keep three points of contact, and stay clear of power lines. Leave roof and second-story work to insured pros.
A simple way to compare quotes
Make a small table with one column per installer and a row for each item above: material and thickness, size, hangers and spacing, downspouts, fascia repair, warranty, price, and timeline. Gaps in the table show you which questions to ask next.
Frequently asked questions
How many gutter quotes should I get?
Two or three written quotes is usually enough to compare price and scope. Make sure each quote lists the same items, such as gutter size, metal thickness, hangers, and downspouts, so you're comparing like for like.
Is the cheapest gutter quote a bad sign?
Not necessarily, but a much lower price often means thinner metal, fewer hangers, fewer or smaller downspouts, or no fascia repair. Ask what's different.